Beaune/Wine: this is what Burgundy is all about and why so many visitors come each year. Several months ago we decided we wanted to visit a different part of France so we focused on this area. In order to get "up close and personal" with a few vineyards/vintners and to learn more about this business we booked an all day tour with a small company called "Burgundy Discovery". Prior to coming Lloyd communicated with them extensively as well as checking their references and what reviews revealed on TripAdvisor.
*The very professional-looking folder prepared for each couple for the day's tour*
After having spent the entire day with the owners, Rob and Joy Pygott, we can vouch for their thoroughness and professionalism. During the morning, prior to visiting or tasting any wine, Joy and Rob gave a 20-30 minute overview of the region, what has been happening with the weather this year (cold spring/rainy autumn) and how all that affects the wine production. As it turns out we should have been in the midst of grape harvesting at this time of year, but instead, because of the crazy weather that the vintners have experienced, the harvest is delayed until "probably" October 3. More about this later.
During the morning, we visited two small wineries. Quality of wines in this region is closely controlled by governing bodies. For example, unlike how wine is made in California, the amount of yeast or sugar that can be added to a batch of wine is tightly regulated. Similarly, the amount of wine that can be produced in a hectare (about 2 1/2 acres) is also tightly controlled. In a year when a vintner produces more grapes than he/she can use, the grapes either have to be destroyed prior to bottling, or bottles from a previous year must be destroyed. So if the tax man knows that a given "clos", an enclosed walled area of grape vines, usually produces 4000 bottles of wine and the vintner produces 5000 bottles this must be reported. If not, the winemaker runs the risk of a stiff fine, or possibly even a jail sentence.
In this area, wine-growing land is passed by Napoleonic law from father to children. If the children do not desire to enter the business, then the land can be sold, but this rarely happens. And sometimes, in today's world, the wineries are being taken over by the female children. We visited the Jean-Pierre Bony winery and were greeted by Fabienne Bony, daughter of Jean-Pierre, who now runs the winery. She has been tasting grapes and trimming vines since she was a little girl. (I didn't know this: vintners taste their grapes and the stems of the vines throughout the entire growing season. As harvest time approaches, it is not uncommon for them to be tasting the ripening grapes every day!)
Lunch was at a lovely roadside restaurant that served the most elegant, beautifully-presented meal that we've had since we've been in Beaune. The setting was also lovely with this beautiful pond outside the window from our table.
In the afternoon we visited one more winery that produces primarily Grand Cru (the highest designation that can be applied to wines in France). It is not uncommon for bottles with this designation to sell for multiple 100's or even 1000's of dollars. I must admit that my palate could not appreciate what we tasted. However, it's nice to give it a try. All in all, I'm happy to report it was a fun, interesting day.
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